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Archive for February, 2012

Hotel bars are by no means the best bars. Yet Jury’s Hotel on Dame Street contained a beautiful antique bar, and when it was due to come under the hammer with the closing of that hotel, it was to end up in the most unusual of places.

Jury’s stood in what is today the location of the Central Bank on Dame Street. A grand premises, as the Irish Independent of October 4 1972 would note, with 95,000 sq. ft. in the 156 bedroom property on the corner of Dame Street and Anglesea Street. Only two doors away, construction was already underway on the Central Bank.

There was due to be an auction on March 6th 1973 which would have seen the contents of the bar auctioned, but a group of businessmen from Zurich purchased the bar for a five figure sum in advance of this. The bar was to be removed to Zurich in its entirety, containing, among other features “a marble-top counter, brass footrails,decorative wall panels and lead light windows”.

Construction underway at the Central Bank.

Today, the pub holds the name ‘The James Joyce Bar’

Of course, James Joyce had strong connections with Zurich, having lived there and indeed being buried in the Fluntern Cemetery near Zurich Zoo. Joyce had left Zurich for Paris in 1920, but returned in 1940 fleeing the fascist occupation of France. For over thirty years the bar of Jury’s Hotel from Dame Street has sat in Zurich, named ironically in honour of a Dubliner who felt the need to leave Dublin to make it as a writer.

The pub today.

The pub today.

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On February 27 1864, The Nation newspaper reported on a ‘ingrate and dishonouring act’ carried out by Dublin Corporation, when the Corporation decided upon Prince Albert, and not Henry Grattan, for the prime statue location at College Green. The paper ran a selection of extracts from other papers across the island, which all slammed the decision, with the Wexford People noting that “thirty-two against fourteen decided that Henry Grattan might go seek a place elsewhere, and that Prince Albert should be the choice of Ireland.”

By December of 1865, The Nation was boasting that the planned “German invasion” of College Green,in the form of a statue to Prince Albert, was no more. There had been protests against the statue, for example a meeting at the Rotunda which saw Fenians take the stage. The Lord Mayor had read a letter from the Duke of Leinster in Council which proposed that the Prince Albert Statue Committee erect their monument to Albert in the grounds of the Royal Dublin Society House. “The idea that Prince Albert’s statue would ever be raised in College Green was manifestly as hopeless and wild as a design to move the Hill of Howth” the paper stated, and the planned “desecration” of College Green, an area historically associated with Henry Grattan and his Irish Volunteers, had been averted. “The husband of the famine Queen” was not to have pride of place on College Green.

Albert's statue in Dublin today, on Leinster Lawn.

Today, Prince Albert’s statue is one of the last ‘imperial’ statues in the city to survive. In the city of exploding statues, Albert today sits hidden in the grounds of Leinster House, right by the Natural History Museum’s walls, with few Dubs aware of his presence. College Green would become home to John Henry Foley’s statue of Grattan, a statue unveiled on January 6 1875. At that unveiling A.M Sullivan spoke of how “this is an age where in other lands principles are abroad teaching class to war upon class. Come hither, Irish men…..behold the figure of a man who born in the highest sphere of society, had a heart that felt for the poorest cottager on an Irish hillside.”

The Irish Times report on the unveiling of the statue noted that the position was perfect for a monument to Grattan, alongside Parliament and facing his alma mater. “His statue has been placed on the only site in Ireland that was worthy of the man, fronting equally two buildings with which his name will be forever most gloriously associated.”

Leinster Lawn, home to Prince Albert today, was of course also once home to Queen Victoria. The figures from the base of her monument are today in Dublin Castle, and will be examined here soon, but Victoria herself would end up in Australia, removed from Leinster Lawn in 1947 and placed in storage for several decades.

The removal of Queen Victoria.

In a 2005 letter to The Irish Times, MM Ireland wrote a letter in response to one stating the statue of Victoria should be returned to Dublin and placed alongside Prince Albert on Leinster Lawn once more.

“I do not know whether the Australians bought Queen Victoria’s statue from us, when it was found to be surplus to our requirements, but we should certainly let them have Prince Albert for nothing.”

It’s difficult to imagine a situation where Prince Albert’s statue would have survived following independence were it placed at College Green. King William of Orange, who sat at College Green for so many years upon his horse, was blown up in the 1940s. Today, that spot is occupied by Irish nationalist Thomas Davis.

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I asked over on our Facebook page about these posters, and was directed towards a Sunday World article you can read in full here:

Dublin is bracing itself for another loyalist invasion. Hundreds of Love Ulster demonstrators plan to hold a controversial parade on southern soil.

Fierce rioting followed their last attempt to march as more than 1,000 republican protestors took to the streets.

The city centre was brought to a standstill as republican youth fought running battles with gardai who were attacked with rocks, bottles and fireworks.

Businesses were smashed and cars set on fire in an orgy of violence which cost €10million.

The Love Ulster organisers’ latest plans will raise republican fury even further. They want to parade past the GPO at Easter, a hallowed date in the nationalist calendar.

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Following on from the successful event two years back, the Cup of Nations Final will again be shown in Dalymount Park, Phibsboro, this Sunday. Entry is free, all going well there will be some food layed on, with drink deals before and during the game. Afterwards, there will be music from guest DJs, and our very own JayCarax. See yizzers there!

Directions to Dalymount Park can be found here: http://bohemians.ie/club/directionsmap.html

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Dublin has a great history of flyposting, indeed in the past we’ve had some great images here showing the tradition, like this one below from 1923 which jaycarax talked about here. The legality of flyposting in Dublin has been ambiguous historically of course, at present the act is prohibited but in post Celtic Tiger Dublin some sites in the city have become unofficial billboards almost.

© Hulton-Deutsch Collection/CORBIS

Digging through the archives, two unusual incidents grabbed my attention from the 1980s, which saw Ulster loyalists fly-post on the streets of the capital. One incident even saw a certain Rev.Ian Paisley and others pasting posters which simply read ‘ULSTER IS BRITISH’ outside of the General Post Office on O’Connell Street!

In May of 1984, the Democratic Unionist Party flyposted 30,000 posters on the streets of the north, the posters were simple in design and message, simply showing a Union Jack and proclaiming that ‘ULSTER IS BRITISH’. The simple posters were the response of the party to the New Ireland Forum, a forum which Paisley and other unionists were fiercly opposed to. Ian Paisley and other leading figures from the DUP decided to embark on a trip to Dublin, during which they would paste the poster up in a number of key locations in the city, such as at the GPO and also outside the offices of The Irish Times.

Paisley told the newspapers that the photo of him postering at the GPO would take “pride of place” in his home, and that he was “glad to stand where the 1916 proclamation was read”. His only criticism of the south was that the “roads are very bad”. The daring act of postering O’Connell Street was done under cover of darkness at 3am, and among those accompanying Paisley was Peter Robinson.

Independent, May 3 1984.

Two years later, in 1986, Ulster Loyalists would once more poster in Dublin, however unlike Ian Paisley’s daring 3am photoshoot, this was a much larger operation with about 20 members of the Ulster Loyalist Democratic Party involved in a large scale operation across the city. The ULDP were the political wing of the UDA, and the posters were in opposition to the Anglo-Irish Agreement. The posters targeted Garrett Fitzgerald and asked ‘What has Fitzgerald ever done for the ordinary people of Dublin?’ and another stated ‘We will never allow Fitzgerald any involvement in our affairs’.

There’s a lot more to write on the tradition of fly-posting in Dublin of course, but these two incidents certainly are unusual.

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From front page of Sunday Independent, October 22 1967

On October 21 1967, a group calling themselves the ‘North Leinster Unit of the Republican Movement’ attempted a daring attack on the headquarters of Fianna Fáil in Dublin, with the aim of drawing attention to the plight of republicans imprisoned in Portlaoise and Limerick. Two petrol bombs were used in the attempt, but it was a night of high drama with a hijacked taxi thrown into the story for good measure, coupled with the firing of shots. Fianna Fáil HQ, or ‘Aras De Valera’ as it later became known, was located at 13 Upper Mount Street.

The Irish Press newspaper of October 23 noted that the petrol bombing of Fianna Fáil HQ at 9.30pm on the 21st coincided with the delivery of a letter to their editorial office claiming the attack for the ‘North Leinster Unit of the Republican Movement’. Of course, The Irish Press was likely chosen owing to its having a long history of connection to the Fianna Fáil party. The very first editor of the publication was Frank Gallagher, a very capable writer who had worked alongside Erskine Childers on the Republican publicity staff during the War of Independence.

Prior to the attack, there had been a hijacking near Pearse Street public library, when a Dublin taxidriver found himself answering a call to a number of men armed with revolvers. The taxi was driven to the Fury Glen in the Phoenix Park, and the driver tied up and told to lie on the floor in the back of the taxi. The taxi was then driven back to the city by one of the attackers. Two petrol bombs were thrown into the premises, described in a later newspaper report at the time of the court cases which followed as “two-gallon tins containing a mixture of oil and petrol” A man who witnessed the attack chased a car driving off from the scene, and for his efforts shots were fired at him near Government Buildings.

The statement delivered to The Irish Press read, in full:

Saturday nights attack on the Government Party headquarters was carried out by the North Leinster Unit of the Republican Movement. Our objective is to focus attention to the cause of three Republican soldiers at present serving jail sentences because of their ideal of a ‘Free Ireland’. This should also be taken as an indication that militant Republicans will meet Fianna Fáil and its secret police with force. Militant republicans demand the release of H. Greensmith, H.A Grensmith and Joe Dillon.

The case quickly came to court, with four men in custody within an hour of the attack. Typically enough, this being Dublin, they were picked up in a city centre public house. Within weeks, two men were sentenced to six months in prison for their role in the attack. The men delivered defiant statements, with one saying:

I take full responsibility for the action carried out, which was to draw attention to the fact that there are political prisoners in Ireland at the moment.

Remarkably, in March of 1969, there was another less serious attack on Fianna Fáil HQ when a petrol bomb was again thrown at the building, though this time there was little damage, no hijacking and thankfully no shots fired!

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Vladimir Lenin, the Russian revolutionary, spoke with a Dublin accent. Well, according to Roddy Connolly, son of James, who said in a 1976 Irish Times feature that Lenin, more specifically, had a “Rathmines accent”. This was due to the fact apparently that Leinin was taught English in London (c. 1902) by an “Irish tutor, who had lived in Leinster Road”. [1]

Lenin, 1895.

After this was repeated in An Irishman’s Diary by Frank McNally early last year, a letter was sent into the paper by Dalton O’Ceallaigh. In it he discussed attending, in the late 1970s, a Dublin meeting organised by the Ireland-USSR Society at which Roddy Connolly spoke about his visit to the infant Soviet Union in the early 1920s. After the speech,  there was a short silent film in which Roddy was shown walking across the square in front of the Winter Palace in what was then Petrograd and conversing with Lenin.

O’Ceallaigh made the point in his letter that “there was no interpreter, so they were obviously speaking in a mutually comprehensible language”.  After the film, Roddy himself stated that

After Lenin’s death, the Russians, on researching his life, believed that when he was in London (he) had placed an advertisement in the London Times to the effect of “if you help teach me English, I’ll help teach you Russian”, the person who replied being a “Mac” somebody or other was thus a Scot. But Roddy said that, on the contrary, it must have been an Irishman. [2]

The memoirs of Lenin’s wife Nadezhda Krupskaya offer some indirect support for Connolly’s claim:

“When we arrived in London we found we could not understand a thing, nor could anybody understand us […] It amused Vladimir Ilyich, but at the same time put him on his mettle. He tackled English in earnest. We started going to all kinds of meetings, getting as close as we could to the speaker and carefully watching his mouth. We went fairly often to Hyde Park at the beginning. Speakers there harangue the strolling crowds on all kinds of subjects […] We particularly liked one such speaker – he had an Irish accent, which we were better able to understand.” [3]

On a side note, what exactly is a Rathmines accent?

Frank McNally suggests it was forerunner to the Dart accent which came to public attention first in the early 1990s. The earliest reference to such a thing that I could find is 1908. D.J. O’Donoghue, in a recollection piece about George Bernard Shaw, spoke about how Shaw had “possessed a ‘Rathmines accent’ which he never entirely lost”. [4]

A jokes corner from The Irish Press in 1936 had this to say:

The Irish Press. Sep 11, 1936.

The Radio Correspondent of The Irish Times in 1946 suggested that the “broad or moderately broad ‘a’ sound (is) a defect characterestic of that mincing, effeminate speech known in Dublin as the Rathmines accent and in Belfast as the Malone Road accent”. [5]

Two years later, another explanation on the accent was given:

Many of the Radio Eireann announcers are guilty of frequent lapses into the genteel, mincing manner of speaking known as the Rathmines accent. One announcer keeps referring to Pakistan as ‘Pawkistan’, several of them talk about ‘fawther’, [for ‘father’] ‘curless’ for ‘careless’, and worst of all ‘infearm’ for ‘infirm'”. [6]

It would seem people tried to use the ‘Rathmines accent’ to get into pubs. As illustrated by this 1942 news story:

The Irish Times. 18 Nov 1942.

Finally, John O’Doherty in a letter to The Irish Times early last year said that the “genteel Rathmines accent was still common when I lived there in the 1960s […] it was also known as an “ORE and ORE” accent, as it was widely spoken in both Rathmines and Rathgar”. [7]

[1] Michael McInerney, Roddy Connolly – 60 years of political activity, The Irish Times, 08 Sep 1976.
[2] Dalton O’Ceallaigh, Letter to Editor, The Irish Times, Feb 15, 2011
[3] Nadezhda Krupskaya, Memories of Lenin (London, 1930), 65
[4] D.J. O’Donoghue, George Bernard Shaw – Some Recollections, The Irish Independent, 17 Feb 1908
[5] Radio Correspondent, Irritating mispronunciation on Radio Eireann, The Irish Times, 24 Jan 1946
[6] Anon, An Irishman’s Diary, The Irish Times, 13 Apr 1949
[7] John O’Doherty, Letter to Editor, The Irish Times, Feb 14, 2011

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It’s hard to forget the man who averaged the mythical “one goal in two games” total during his time in the League of Ireland, in a career spanning Bray Wanderers, Drogheda United, Sporting Fingal, and Derry City. I don’t think he’s going to forget the moment in the clip below, completing a ten minute hat-trick for his new club Persepolis in the Tehran derby, helping his team come back from 2-0 down to a stunning 3-2 victory; in front of a crowd of 70, 000, with television viewers claimed to be close to 20 million. Trap lad, missed the boat…?

Cheers to Dunster for the heads up… Don’t forget mate, as you are now, so once were we, as we are now, so once were you…

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Here’s the complete list of our 18 pub crawls since September 2009. All prices are from the time we visited. I’ve included some pictures of my favourite spots from along the way.

The Long Hall. (Flickr – Steve-h)

1. September 2009 (Pubs 1-5) [hXci, City Centre]

– The Long Hall, Sth. Great George’s St.
– Kehoes, South Anne St.
– The Dawson Lounge, Dawson St.
– Toners, Baggot St. Lwr.
– Mulligans, Poolbeg St.

2.  November 2009 (Pubs 6-10) [dfallon, City Centre]

– Davy Byrnes, Duke St. (€4.80)
Dame Tavern, Dame Ct. (€4.60)
MacTurcaills, Townsend St. (€3.50 w/ student card)
Doheny and Nesbitt, Baggot St. Lwr. (€4.80)
The Bankers, Trinity St. (€4.50)

The Lord Edward (Flickr – infomatique)

3.  December 2009 (Pubs 11-15) [hXci, City Centre]

– Peter’s Pub, Sth. William St. (€4.80)
– The Lord Edward, Christchurch Place. (€4.00)
– The Brazen Head, Lwr. Bridge St. (€4.50)
– Frank Ryan & Sons, Queen St. (€4.30)
– The Cobblestone, King St. North. (€4.10)

4. January 2010 (Pubs 16-20) [JayCarax, City Centre]

– Hourican’s, Lwr. Leeson St. (€4.50)
The Shelbourne, St. Stephen’s Green (?)
The Bailey, Duke St. (€5.00)
The International, Wicklow St. (€4.50)
Neary’s, Chatham St. (€4.85)

5. February 2010 (Pubs 21-25) [JFlood, Rathmines. Words – hXci]

– Toast, Lwr. Rathmines Rd. (€4.35)
MB Slattery’s, Lwr. Rathmines Rd. (€4.30)
Graces, Rathgar Rd. (€4.10)
Mother Reillys, Uppr. Rathmines Rd. (€4.15)
Rody Bolands, Uppr, Rathmines Rd. (€4.30)

Bowes. (celticphotography.ie)

6. March 2010 (pubs 26-30) [hXci, City Centre]

– The Duke, Duke St. (€4.45)
– The Gingerman, Fenian St. (€4.60)
– Ned Scanlons, Townsend St. (€3.80)
– The Long Stone, Townsend St. (€4.60)
– Bowes, Fleet St. (€4.50)

7. March 2010 x2 (Pubs 31-35) [Dfallon, Dorset St/Drumcondra]

– The Celt, Talbot St. (€4.40)
– The Red Parrot, Dorset St. (€4.00)
– Patrick McGraths, Lwr. Drumcondra Rd.(€4.50)
– W.J. Kavanaghs, Dorset St. (€4.10)
– Mayes, Dorset St. (?)

8. April 2010 (Pubs 36-40) [JayCarax, Camden St./Portobello]

– Cassidy’s, Lwr. Camden St. (€4.20)
The Bleeding Horse, Uppr. Camden St. (€4.25)
The Lower Deck, Portobello Harbour. (€4.15)
The Portobello, Sth. Richmond St. (€4.15)
J. O’Connell’s, 29 Sth Richmond St. (€4.00)

J.O’Connell (Picture – ?)

9. May 2010 (Pubs 41- 47) [hXci, City Centre/Thomas St.]

– The Bull and Castle, Christchurch Place (€4.80 – cider)
– The Legal Eagle, Chancery Place (€3.85) [€2.2.0 – Sundays 1/2 price]
– O’Shea’s Merchant, Lwr. Bridge St. (€4.90)
– Pifko, Usher’s Quay. (€4.00 – Paulaner)
– The Clock, Thomas St. (€4.60)
– Bakers, Thomas St. (€4.60)
– Tom Kennedys, Thomas St. (€4.50)
– Brogans, Dame St. (€4.30)

10. June 2010 (Pubs 48- 53) [hXci, City Centre]

– McDaids, Harry St. (€4.65)
– The Hairy Lemon, Stephens St. (€4.80)
– Hogans, Sth. Great George’s St. (€4.45)
– Jack Nealons, Capel St. (€4.20)
– The Bachelor Inn, Bachelors Walk. (€4.40)

(more…)

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Scanned from Lennox Robinson's 'Pictures In A Theatre'

The Abbey has a long and fascinating history. Some stories, like the riots which surrounded both The Playboy of the Western World and The Plough and the Stars have gone on to enter popular Dublin ‘lore and history. Yet there is a great hidden history to the Abbey, and below are five facts about the theatre that may surprise some of you.

1) Yeats could have made it a part-time cinema!

In his excellent history of the “theatre that refused to die”, Sean McCann wrote of the financial crisis that gripped the Abbey in the early 1920s. On the day Sean O’Casey’s classic ‘The Shadow Of A Gunman’ was first performed at the theatre in April of 1923, banks advised the directors of the Abbey that their cheques could no longer be cashed. As McCann notes in his history “by August of that year the letting of the theatre as a cinema was considered, with the warm approval of Yeats, and only the possibility of a Government subsidy gave any hope of keeping it alive.”

2) The Dublin Fire Brigade saved the pram from O’Casey’s The Plough and the Stars.

L.Fallon collection. Posted previously to 'Come Here To Me'.

On July 18 1951 a fire ripped the home of the Abbey apart. Tom Geraghty and Trevor Whitehead noted in their history of the Dublin Fire Brigade that in was the busiest night of the year for the Brigade, with nine crews fighting the blaze.

What had been the former Mechanic’s Institute and City Morgue was just a gaunt dangerous skeleton festooned with The Plough and the Stars posters, and the ghost of Yeats was left to haunt an eerie smoke-filled chamber.

The incredible image above shows Fireman Frank Brennan salvaging the pram, which featured even in the excellent 2010 production. The frame is original, its casing isn’t.

3) It boasts a fine 1916 connection, though its monument has changed.

Historically, a plaque was located in one of the pillars outside The Abbey, listing seven names. These are individuals who participated in the Easter Rising, and who held a variety of roles at the theatre. The first casualty of the republican side in Easter Week of course was an Abbey actor by the name of Sean Connolly, but alongside him are six other names, all of whom survived the uprising. Máire Mic Shibhlaigh, Helena Molony, Ellen Bushell, Arthur Shields, Barney Murphy and Peadar Kearney were all listed on the plaque.

Today, their names are on the 1916 memorial inside of the theatre, rather than a plaque outside it:

In an excellent contribution to Dublin Historical Record, the publication of the Old Dublin Society, James Wren correctly noted that the theatres connections to the insurrection went much deeper.

Edward Keegan for instance was a 1916 volunteer who had a long history with the theatre, and his name is sadly omitted from the memorial. He had been a member of the National Players, and even appeared in the first productions of Yeats’ On Baille’s Strand and Lady Gregory’s Spreading The News.

Keegan worked with The Irish Times newspaper as a clerk, but found himself sacked following the rebellion for ‘disloyalty’!

4)It took a decade to pull it down after the inferno of 1951, but in the meantime it made a handy office for one infamous Dubliner.

Ernest Blythe recalled for me the first time he met Brendan Behan was when he went to one of the old rooms a long time after the fire and there he found a man installed. ‘It turned out he was using it for an office. He had all his papers spread out and he had made it his town office. Apparently, someone had told him where the key was kept and he had been using the place for months.

(Sean McCann: The Story of the Abbey Theatre (New English Library Limited, 1967) p.65)

5) Michael Scott, who designed the Abbey we all know today, once trod the boards of the old Abbey.

Michael Scott, the architect responsible for the Abbey which opened to the public in 1966, had a long personal history with the theatre. He joined the Abbey School of Acting under Sara Allgood, while also undertaking a architectural apprenticeship. He would recall in a recollection for The Irish Times that soon after going into private practice, he was given the call-up for a part in an Abbey play, on a London stage. He would also go on to appear at the theatre in Dublin..

Now in private practice in an office on the top floor of a building in O’Connell Street, and working on plans for the Gate Theatre in the Rotunda, and other projects, I was asked to go to London to play in Shaftesbury Avenue. The part offered was the Gossoon,in the Abbey Play The New Gossoon.

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(Note: Pub Crawl, December 2012 (84 – 88) is on the way. hXci’s notes were stolen by a seagull)

With a little bit of rain being our only obstacle, an eager group of ten of us set off from Windy Arbour Luas stop at 4:30pm Sunday last for the 20th CHTM! pub crawl and the first of 2012.

Seeing as the best of the city centre pubs have been visited as well as the outlying South Dublin neighborhoods (Beggars Bush, Baggot St, Leeson St, Portobello, Ranelagh, Rathmines and Harolds Cross), it was with great pleasure that I was able to bring people out even further and to areas (and pubs) that were unknown to them.

The areas of Windy Arbour and Dundrum made perfect sense as they were easily accessible (due to the Luas) and, more importantly, had five pubs close enough to each other for walking distance.

With everyone more than happy to escape the continuous rain, our first stop of call was The Corner House (aka Kynes).

The Corner House (aka Kynes), Windy Arbour. (Google Street View)

Our group of ten immediately doubled the number of patrons in the place. Turning into the pub, you’re faced with a long bar on the left and a row of stools and seats on your right.

At the back, there was a TV showing the Aston Villa – Arsenal game (not too loud thankfully) and in the back left hand corner was a Darts board.  A small group of local lads played with one eye on the game. (The web tells me that the pub runs a dart team, probably one of a dying breed?)

If you had come through the main door and went straight, instead of right, you would got to the bar area which was empty on this Sunday and presumably only used for busy nights and functions.

A sign advertised a weekly Thursday poker night and it was also nice to see a small row of books at the entrance of the bar for people to read (and perhaps swap).

The lovely pint of stout came in at a very reasonable €4.20. The second cheapest of the day.

The Corner House, formerly known as The Nine Arches (and apparently before that J.D.’s Corner House, and The Millrace), is a pub right in the heart of traditional Shamrock Rovers territory. Their former Milltown stadium is just over five minutes walk away and this pub has not forgotten the fact. On the walls were a couple of Rovers & Glenmalure Park framed pictures. With a Dublin GAA flag on the wall as well, this was a definite football (with a dose of GAA) pub. In many ways, a whole world way from the more rugby orientated pubs that are only down the road.

Leaving after an hour, with everyone seemingly content with both the pint and the general atmosphere of the place, we moved down a few yards to Ryans Arbour House.

Ryans Arbour House, Windy Arbour. (Flickr – infomatique)

We decided to go into the lounge and not the bar. Perhaps a mistake. The lounge area was big, kitsch and soulless. On arrival, a group of lads in their early 30s in the corner turned and stared. One said across to us – “Hey, are you foreigners? – Wanna see my dick?” Charming.

A few others, of a similar age, were dotted around the (massive) lounge. The walls were full of various sized framed pictures, ranging from Shamrock Rovers match programmes to random drawings of horses and everything else in between. A jukebox beside the bar was being used to play the most random collection of dodgy Euro-techno, Country n Western and Soul ballads.

The pint, poured by a very friendly young barman, came in at €4.35 and was perfectly drinkable.

Ryans Arbour House (formerly Windy Arbour House and before that Cosgraves) made the papers a couple of times in the early twentieth century.

Firstly, for selling liquor to ‘non-bona-fide travelers’ in 1915:

July 14, 1915. Irish Independent.

Secondly, for being put up for sale later that year:

27 Nov 1915. The Irish Times.

With no real positive feelings about the place (this could have easily changed perhaps though if we had ventured into the bar), we left and made the five-minute walk to Uncle Toms Cabin.

Uncle Toms Cabin, Dundrum. (Flickr – infomatique)

A very unusually named premises (see 1852 anti-Slavery novel), this large pub dating back to 1878, was the favourite for most people I reckon. First impressions were very encouraging when a middle-aged man, who was sitting in the corner reading a newspaper, gave up his seat so that we could all fit in.

The interior of the place made the most lasting impression. It benefited from very high ceilings, lovely seats and an array of interesting (non tacky) items in glass cases around the pub. For example, I spotted a receipt from a Middle Abbey St. grocers from 1912 tucked in beside some old bottles and books.

The overwhelmingly older patrons (60+) were all smiles and did not seem to mind the sudden arrival of our gang – our numbers now swelled to twelve. The pints came out €4.40, the most expensive of the night but many people thought they were the best. So much so that we all stayed for another one.

James Collins (1860 – 1940), described by The Irish Times as “one of the best-known members of the licensed trade in Dublin”, ran Uncle Toms Cabins for most of the early twentieth century. His name can still be seen written on one of the windows pubs facing the front (see above).

The pub made the news in 1928 when a gas explosion blew out the windows of the building.

22 Dec 1928. The Irish Times.

I’m nearly certain that the Collins’ family still run the pub today.

(more…)

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